So the eclipse had been a success after all, but the trip was far from over. After a heated debate we decided to forget about Ushuaia and head north, so Nuria and Rodrigo had time to visit Iguazú.
Road at Calafate. Pablo González de Prado Salas.
The road north
Our next stop was Valdés Peninsula, halfway between the southern tip of Argentina and Buenos Aires. Valdés is a special place if you are into wildlife, offering diverse species depending on the season. In our case Right Whales where the main menu.
If you get up early you can see the whales amazingly close to a beach, where the bottom drops sharply in a sort of undersea cliff. Then you have the visit to the natural area, where you get in a boat to see the whales from up close.
Taking pictures of whales is tricky! We could also sea a few seals and… a penguin! It was NOT the right season for penguins, so the poor fellow must have been lost or something!
Then we were in for a special treat. In Valdés area you can also see the colosal Elephant Seals. This colony is rather hard to reach, specially after some rains; there is no road to get there! And once—or if--you do you have to climb down a cliff, so this is not for the faint of heart. There may be more strict regulations now as well!
But when you get there, it really is worth it. You are so close that you really are among them. And they really are big! Also: dangerous. A bite from an elephant seal is quite dangerous, so this is no joke.
Now we could relax on our way back to the bus to Buenos Aires… except some guys had had the great idea of reaching the seal colony on a hired Volkswagen Gol. It did not end well. Luckily for them our guides had bigger cars to tow them (I can only hope they had good insurance). ​
The nice surprise to top the day is when during the rescue water has messed with your own engine and the others have already left and you need to get to the bus station. Ah, good times. Fortunately our guide also knew his mechanics, so thank you!
With our kind host Mariano
With our kind host Mariano
Our next stop was Buenos Aires, were we enjoyed the kind hospitality of Mariano. Buenos Aires is not as safe as other places in Argentina, but with some common sense it is a nice visit.
Buenos Aires is a colourful and diverse metropolis. After seeing the main landmarks (like the Casa Rosada in the picture) take the time to walk around some of its neighbourhoods.
In the streets you can enjoy local food, art, and get a few glimpses of everyday life. Do not miss the chance to try the traditional choripán!
And after the city, Nature in its most overwhelming manifestation. Iguazú is an awe-inspiring piece of primitive land, where titanic amounts of water roar through a deep jungle. 
Puerto Iguazú village is found at the triple border of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Anything taken from the jungle, including its rivers, is stained in the deep colour of clay, like blood flowing from an open cut.
We only had a day for the falls, and we visited them from the Argentinian side. The day was overcast, which enhanced the natural feeling of mystery of the jungle.
Even though there were plenty of tourists, there are many and long paths, so much of the time we were quite on our own.
You can actually get close to some of the falls, so prepare to be generously doused. You will also want to take lots of pictures, so be cleverer than I was and take an extra battery with you.
Iguazú is easily one of the most striking natural places I have ever seen!
About half of the water from the river falls at the Devil's Throat, a stunning U-shaped fall so impressive that the massive amounts of water vapour prevent you from seeing the bottom. The quickly changing waters also confuse my computer, which refused to put together the following panoramas.
Before leaving Puerto Iguazú we visited Güiraoga animal refuge. This places are always somewhat sweet-and-sour experiences, with a different perspective from the usual tourist attractions. You also get to see awesome animals, but you know something bad happened to each of them if they are in the centre. 
After Güiraoga the party split. Nuria and Rodrigo needed to return to Spain sooner, so they headed back to Buenos Aires taking the chance to visit Montevideo. As for Nacho and I, we still had a few days to explore central Argentina and cross the desert to reach Atacama. Rougher and drier, this was the perfect contrast for out closing chapter.
This is a good spot for a break. Stay tuned for the last episode!