So the eclipse had been a success after all, but the trip was far from over. After a heated debate we decided to forget about Ushuaia and head north, so Nuria and Rodrigo had time to visit Iguazú.
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Our next stop was Valdés Peninsula, halfway between the southern tip of Argentina and Buenos Aires. Valdés is a special place if you are into wildlife, offering diverse species depending on the season. In our case Right Whales where the main menu.
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Taking pictures of whales is tricky! We could also sea a few seals and… a penguin! It was NOT the right season for penguins, so the poor fellow must have been lost or something!
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Then we were in for a special treat. In Valdés area you can also see the colosal Elephant Seals. This colony is rather hard to reach, specially after some rains; there is no road to get there! And once—or if--you do you have to climb down a cliff, so this is not for the faint of heart. There may be more strict regulations now as well!
But when you get there, it really is worth it. You are so close that you really are among them. And they really are big! Also: dangerous. A bite from an elephant seal is quite dangerous, so this is no joke.
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Now we could relax on our way back to the bus to Buenos Aires… except some guys had had the great idea of reaching the seal colony on a hired Volkswagen Gol. It did not end well. Luckily for them our guides had bigger cars to tow them (I can only hope they had good insurance).
The nice surprise to top the day is when during the rescue water has messed with your own engine and the others have already left and you need to get to the bus station. Ah, good times. Fortunately our guide also knew his mechanics, so thank you!
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In the streets you can enjoy local food, art, and get a few glimpses of everyday life. Do not miss the chance to try the traditional choripán!
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And after the city, Nature in its most overwhelming manifestation. Iguazú is an awe-inspiring piece of primitive land, where titanic amounts of water roar through a deep jungle.
Puerto Iguazú village is found at the triple border of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Anything taken from the jungle, including its rivers, is stained in the deep colour of clay, like blood flowing from an open cut.
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About half of the water from the river falls at the Devil's Throat, a stunning U-shaped fall so impressive that the massive amounts of water vapour prevent you from seeing the bottom. The quickly changing waters also confuse my computer, which refused to put together the following panoramas.
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Before leaving Puerto Iguazú we visited Güiraoga animal refuge. This places are always somewhat sweet-and-sour experiences, with a different perspective from the usual tourist attractions. You also get to see awesome animals, but you know something bad happened to each of them if they are in the centre.
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After Güiraoga the party split. Nuria and Rodrigo needed to return to Spain sooner, so they headed back to Buenos Aires taking the chance to visit Montevideo. As for Nacho and I, we still had a few days to explore central Argentina and cross the desert to reach Atacama. Rougher and drier, this was the perfect contrast for out closing chapter.
This is a good spot for a break. Stay tuned for the last episode!
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